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Grubs are the larvae of various beetles, such as Japanese beetles, June bugs, or European chafer beetles. They resemble plump, C-shaped creatures with soft bodies and voracious appetites — and they love to feast on grass roots, causing significant damage to your lawn if left unchecked.
Grubs might seem like innocent critters, but their munching habits can turn your once-luscious lawn into a battlefield. As these hungry larvae feast on grass roots, they weaken the foundation of your turf, making it more susceptible to drought, disease, and other pests. Let’s take a look at how to tell if your grass is affected by grubs, what to do about it, and how to prevent an infiltration from happening in the first place.
One of the easiest ways to tell if you have a grub problem is if critters like raccoons, birds, and even skunks start frequenting your yard more often. These animals love to devour grubs, so their presence is often a telltale sign of infestation.
Another telltale sign is if your grass begins to wilt and develop scattered brown patches. While this isn’t always an indication of grubs, a good way to find out is by grabbing a fistful of brown grass and peeling it up. If the grass stays put, there’s likely another problem at play; if it easily peels upward, grubs are probably the culprit — as they feed on the roots holding that grass in place. If you determine you do have an infestation, quick action is needed.
The first thing to do is assess the extent of the infestation. Dig small areas of your lawn using a spade or trowel to examine the soil. If you find more than ten grubs per square foot, it’s time to take action.
One approach is to use natural predators. Milky spore, a bacterium that specifically targets Japanese beetle grubs, can be applied to your lawn to help stop an infestation in its tracks. Another option is beneficial nematodes, which are available at most garden centers. These microscopic roundworms can be applied using a watering can or sprayer and are often quite effective against grubs.
If the infestation is severe or other methods haven’t worked, you may need to turn to chemical controls. Look for products specifically designed to target grubs in lawn areas and follow the instructions carefully — some products have specific application windows that affect their effectiveness. While these methods can tackle an active infestation, prevention is still your best long-term strategy.
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One of the most important things you can do to keep grubs away is ensure your soil is well-drained and aerated, as grubs thrive in compacted soil. Regularly fertilizing and maintaining proper watering practices will keep your grass strong and resilient — healthy turf simply doesn’t make as inviting a home for pests.
Grubs also love to hide in tall grass and thatch, so keep your lawn well-maintained. Regular mowing at the appropriate height discourages grubs from settling in, and removing excessive thatch eliminates the cozy shelter these troublemakers depend on.
Finally, consider using a preventive grub treatment between late spring and midsummer, while grubs are still in their vulnerable early larval stage. This is the ideal window to stop them before they have a chance to establish themselves and do real damage to your lawn.
Here’s what’s worth doing this month. Take what applies to your property and skip the rest.
• Raise the mowing deck. 3.5 to 4 inches for most lawns. Taller grass shades the soil, holds moisture longer, and outcompetes weeds. Cutting short in July stresses the grass and opens the door for crabgrass.
• Water deeply and less often. One inch per week, early morning. Deep watering pushes roots down where the soil stays cooler. Frequent shallow watering does the opposite — it trains roots to stay near the surface, where July will cook them.
• Know when to skip a mow. If the lawn has gone dormant and brown in a dry stretch, mowing it is just additional stress. Let it rest. It’ll come back when temps drop.
• Hold off on fertilizing cool-season grass. Pushing growth on fescue, bluegrass, or rye in peak heat causes more harm than good. Wait until September.
• Treat for grubs now. July is the window. Grub eggs are hatching and the larvae are small and close to the surface — that’s when preventive and curative treatments work best. Wait until August and you’ll be chasing bigger grubs that are harder to kill.
• Watch for Japanese beetles. They’re at peak activity in July. Hand-pick in the morning when they’re sluggish, or use neem oil on garden plants. Beetle bag traps attract more than they catch — skip those.
• Check for chinch bugs in sunny spots. If you have dry, brown patches in full sun that don’t respond to water, part the grass at the edge and look for small black-and-white insects. Chinch bugs suck moisture from grass blades and thrive in heat.
• Dump standing water — again. Mosquito season is in full swing. Walk the yard and empty anything holding water: saucers, buckets, low tarps, clogged gutters. A week is all they need.
• Harvest frequently. Zucchini, cucumbers, beans — pick them before they get huge. Overripe produce on the plant signals it to stop producing. Check every day or two.
• Deadhead flowers. Removing spent blooms on zinnias, marigolds, and coneflowers keeps them flowering through August. Takes five minutes and makes a visible difference.
• Mulch if you haven’t. Two to three inches around beds and vegetable rows cuts watering frequency in half and keeps roots from cooking. Pull it back from stems and trunks.
• Start fall crop seeds indoors. Broccoli, kale, Brussels sprouts, and cabbage need 6–8 weeks before transplant time. Start them now in a cool spot so they’re ready when September rolls in.
• Deep-water anything planted in the last two years. Young trees haven’t built a root system deep enough to find moisture on their own yet. A slow, deep soak once a week during dry stretches keeps them from going into long-term stress.
• Avoid heavy pruning. Pruning in heat puts trees under stress and opens wounds when they’re least able to defend themselves. Stick to dead or hazardous branches only.
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• Check the mower blade. A dull blade tears grass instead of cutting it, leaving ragged edges that brown out and invite disease. Mid-season is a good time to resharpened if you haven’t since spring.
• Keep the Cyclone Rake ready for summer debris. Storm season means sticks, leaves, and blown-in mess. If your Cyclone Rake sat through spring, give it a quick check — oil, air filter, belt, hose. Better to find a problem now than mid-cleanup.
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• Raise your mowing deck and stop cutting short.
• Apply grub control — the window is open now and closes fast.
• Water deeply in the morning, not a little every day.
July isn’t about doing more — it’s about doing the right things and letting the yard ride out the heat. Get those three right and most of the rest takes care of itself.
July is a crucial month for gardeners, marked by intense summer heat and the need for extra care to keep plants healthy and productive. Whether you're an experienced gardener or just starting out, this guide will provide you with essential tips to ensure your garden thrives. We'll cover the most important considerations for your garden in July, the best plants to grow, and additional tips to help you overcome the challenges of summer gardening.
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These tips are meant to ensure your garden remains vibrant and productive throughout July. Adapting your gardening practices to the summer climate and paying close attention to your plants' needs will help you achieve a bountiful and beautiful garden.
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